The Ultimate Guide to Ambergris Caye, Belize

It’s another hot summer for the books in Colorado, sweltering days that have us shaking our heads and wondering if we’ve somehow been transplanted to Arizona. That’s how I feel anyway, and in June I got to escape to the tropical paradise of Ambergris Caye (pronounced ‘key”.)

I didn’t expect to completely fall in love with Belize’s largest island located 35 miles off the mainland, but I did. We spent four and a half magical days exploring this tiny land mass, it has landed a top spot on my list of favorite destinations. Read on to discover the magic of this island and why you should be planning your next vacation there!

To get to the island you first fly into Belize City (BZE). From there, you take either a puddle jumper plane or a ferry to the main hub of the island, San Pedro. The plan ride takes about 30 minutes for roughly $150 roundtrip (per person). The ferry is the cheaper option, but it takes around 2 hours.

I took the plane, and it was well worth the views as we soared above the open sea. Tiny uninhabited islands are scattered throughout the Caribbean, full of mangrove trees, some are half submerged under the high tide. The water is a tie-dye blanket of vibrant turquoise, mint, and teal.

Ambergris is a melting pot of locals and tourists of all different ethnicities. Beautiful beachfront properties stand guard along the coast, and houses that have weathered more than a few storms are tucked closely together farther inland. Tourism funds the economy, so the locals are open and friendly, although I believe they still would be even if it wasn’t a touristy place. Every local I spoke to said they love living here for a multitude of reasons.

There are several quirks that create the unique and laidback vibe of Ambergris Caye. Surrounded by the warm, neon waters, the land is a mix of mangrove marshes, lush and dense jungle fauna and flora, and white beaches. Stray dogs amble through town and iguanas are as common as rabbits. In late June, thousands of white, green, and yellow butterflies can be seen migrating over the open water, twinkling like confetti under the blazing sun.

Golf carts are the preferred source of transportation over the small cobblestoned streets that wind through San Pedro, creating a sense of community as you make direct eye contact with other drivers, bikers, and pedestrians. You get used to maneuvering the speed bumps and dips that rock the cart – and your body. Getting to and from town can take anywhere from 10 to 25 minutes depending on where you stay.

The city of San Pedro is small but thriving with life. The buildings are packed closely together, and the streets are narrow, filled with shops and restaurants. The beachfront bars double as piers with docks jutting out into the water, some ending with palapas (open-sided canopies usually made from palm fronds).

Fruit stands line the streets, and fisherman sell directly to restaurants, hauling in their fresh catch from that same morning. Expect fresh fish ceviche and rum punch on every boat tour you take.

Places to Stay

There are countless places to stay on the island, ranging from beachside cabanas to hotels in the central hub of town. The off-season (June – October) will be considerably cheaper than the peak season (December – April). Hurricanes typically happen during the off-season, and it can be wet, although when we went in June there was more sun than rain. Here are some mentionable places to stay during your visit to Ambergris Caye.

Hol Chan Reef Resort – okay, if I wasn’t with my family, I definitely wouldn’t have stayed in a place this nice, but if you prefer to vacay in style, I highly recommend these resort condos. Complete with a full kitchen, living room, and dining areas, these luxury units make up one of the tallest buildings on the southern end. The views of the vibrant water and Caye Caulker in the distance are unparalleled. It takes about 25 minutes to drive (by golf cart) into town, but the pristine private beach and quiet atmosphere is worth it.

Hotel De Rio – crash in thatched roof cabanas right on the beach. Just a 10 minute walk into town, this hotel features ocean views and is a great option for lower budgets. The rooms range from $65 – $165 per night depending on the season.   

Blue Tang Inn – located right on the oceanfront hub of San Pedro, this bed-and-breakfast is within walking distance of several beachfront bars and restaurants, and it’s also a prime pickup point for boat tours. The units themselves come with full kitchens, a sundeck on the third floor for catching rays and breathtaking views and offers its own daily activities such as snorkeling and sea kayaking. Prices range from $100 – $200 per night depending on the season.

Trip advisor is a great website to use when searching for the perfect place to crash while adventuring. Here are some other great finds.

Places to Eat

La Fonda de Nilo – a newer spot in San Pedro, this establishment is run by an Argentinian who seriously knows how to cook. The empanadas are a must, and the steaks are the size of a dinner plate.

Someplace South – southern comfort meets sea food. Feel right at home sitting in a backyard filled with leafy palm trees as you munch on chicken fried chicken and listen to the live bands that play.

Elvi’s Kitchen – considered the most popular spot in San Pedro, Elvi’s is stylish, contemporary, and on the higher end. Sit under the massive tree wrapped in white Christmas lights as you indulge in lobster or conk depending on the season, your feet digging into the sand – no real floors here!

Toast – this self-dubbed “beachside boozery” is one of the cutest spots on the island with open air seating, swings right on the water, and bowling lanes. The food is basic but delicious, and is cheaper than most places. They host a bunch of social events throughout the week such as karaoke and trivia.

Black Orchid – this classic seafood spot is run entirely by women. The origin of the restaurant is unique and funny – you’ll just have to go there to find out.

Loser’s – situated on the end of a pier, this spot doubles as one of the popular nightlife locations. Enjoy the sea breeze while drinking a pretty cocktail. Try the tacos and coconut shrimp.

Stax – there’s nothing like good comfort food. This spot offers pub grub such as pizza, nachos, and pulled pork sandwiches. Grab a Bellekin or Landshark beer, and play the ring-toss game on the wooden deck dining area.

Black & White Garifuna Restaurant – tucked away from the street sits this delectable little find that pays homage to the indigenous people on the island. Sit under a thatched-roof palapa draped with tapestries and enjoy the reggae-inspired music. Try the Garifuna virgin snapper, Bundiga (banana dumplings), and Belizean patties and immerse yourself in the culture.  

Things to Do  

No Rush (Boat Tour) – board a sailboat with Captain Steve and first mate Kay for a full day of adventure. Snorkel the Hol Chan Marine Reserve and see all sorts of sea life. Watching a sea turtle munch on grass, then swim to the surface for air was the highlight of the entire trip. Continue on to Shark Ray Alley, and snorkel with sting rays and nurse sharks.

Sail across the bay and have lunch on Caye Caulker. Even smaller than Ambergris, this tiny island is a must see. The houses are painted a rainbow of pastels and the land itself is divided by a narrow channel called the Split. We were there during the annual lobster festival and the island was a party. Eat lunch at Rainbow Bar and Grill, and have a smoothie from Tropical Cake Wave. End the boat trip by sailing back to Ambergris. We went during the rainy season and encountered a few minor squalls. Kay wrapped us in an industrial sized tarp – hilarious but effective.

Book a tour with Captain Steve here.

Go Fish Belize (Boat Tour) – option for the fish, BBQ, snorkel tour, and have a full day of adventure. This small, motored fishing boat is manned by Captain Ricky and first mate Bicho. Start the day by catching live bait in the shallows – or rather, watch the captain cast the net. From there, head south around the southern tip of the island. Cast off the back of the boat and reel in snapper of all sizes and colors. Or if you’re like me, and don’t like fishing, hop on the bow and soak in the rays.

After fishing, head to a private beach, where the crew BBQ the fresh catch on an outdoor grill, using coconuts for charcoal. Enjoy the warm waters, but be aware of the sea fleas, tiny translucent bugs that latch on and bite. End the day by snorkeling in another part of the Hol Chan Reef, the stretch of underwater world teeming with sea creatures.

Book a tour with Captain Ricky here.

Enjoy the Nightlife – San Pedro has a bunch of night life options all within walking distance of one another. Palapa Bar is just that – a giant palapa with chaise lounges on the dock, and even a section where you can get in the water and float in a tube while enjoying a drink. Loser’s is right next store and has great bar food, and brings in a mix of locals and tourists alike. Playa Bar and Grill has great music for dancing. This local spot had such a fun vibe; and we definitely stood out as tourists, but that’s partly what made it so fun. Nothing like immersing yourself in a different culture and being in the minority to learn about perspective and empathy. Jaguar’s is the one true nightclub on the island but it still has a very beachy, laid back vibe.  

Sirena Azul Sunset Sail – cruise around the coast for a couple of hours on a beautiful sailboat. Enjoy ceviche, rum punch, and beer, as the sky blooms into a flower of pinks and purples. This option is great for those wanting a relaxing tour while still seeing the sights.

Book a tour here.

Walk the Town – San Pedro is lively and small, making it easy to walk around and enjoy everything it has to offer. Eat at one of the many restaurants, grab a drink at a beachside bar, and do some shopping. Stop by the Salty Dog and Belize Art for perfect souvenirs and grab a chocolate chip cookie from the Chocolate shop. Seriously, those cookies are some of the best. Stop by the town square and buy from the local vendors.

Secret Beach – the western side of the island is where the true beaches are. Secret beach used to be a secret before it was discovered and made popular by the tourists. Still, it was highly recommended by all the locals. The water is clear of the seaweed that populates much of the eastern side of the island, and the white sand beach is pristine.

Mayan Ruins – if you’re wanting something a bit more off the beaten path, drive south to the Mayan ruins. A rickety walkway keeps you elevated above the water as you walk ¼ of a mile through the marshes and mangroves. There’s a sign at the trailhead urging you to bring bug spray, and it’s not exaggerating. The mosquitoes were attacking the entire walk, and when the path ended in the dense jungle, they came out in droves. It was honestly very difficult to even focus on the small remains of stone buildings or read the informational plaques because the skeeters were swarming us so badly, which made it pretty hilarious. We did see a handful of hermit crabs though, and that made the jungle madness worth it.

Things to Keep in Mind

US currency is accepted, although Belize dollars are preferred. A lot of places take credit card as well.

Bring bug spray! The mosquitos play a professional game here. Once the sun sets and the temperatures cool, they will find you, even if you’re someone like me who doesn’t get bit much. Bug spray became my full-body perfume to ward off the tiny beasts.

There is no clean tap water on Ambergris – all water comes bottled or 5-gallon containers imported from the mainland. If the place you’re staying at has the option of buying the 5-gallon containers, opt for that. Bring a couple of hydro flasks and fill up each time you go on an excursion. Remember when filling the ice trays to use the filtered water as well.

The plumbing systems aren’t the best on the island, so toilet paper is thrown in the trash instead of the toilet. It sounds gross, but the trash bags were surprisingly good at masking any scent.

Don’t swim at night! While it’s tempting to cool off from the humid day, crocodiles and venomous snakes are active in the water when the sun goes down. I kept my eye out but unfortunately we didn’t spot either of these predators.  

Ambergris Caye is a beautiful, adventure-filled destination with something for everyone. I’m already dreaming of the day I get to go back. Tell me, where are your favorite summer escapes?