Olympic National Park is a magical place. Taking up the northwest corner of Washington state, the park’s 1442 square miles include vibrant rainforests, high alpine glaciers, dramatic rocky beaches, serene waterfalls, and languid lakes.
ONP is one of my most favorite places in the entire country because of its ecological diversity and its general remoteness. Surrounded on nearly three sides by water the Olympic Peninsula is not as easily accessible as parks in landlocked states, which results in far less people.
Whether you’re a first-time hiker, traveling with a family or are looking for something off the beaten path, this park has something for everyone. Read on to plan the ultimate adventure.
Side note: This route goes counterclockwise starting at Port Angeles but could easily go clockwise as well.
Day One
Start the day off with hiking Hurricane Hill. From Port Angeles head south on Hurricane Ridge Road. This is where you’ll enter Olympic National Park.
It’s $30 per vehicle which is valid for one week, or $55 for an annual pass (to ONP only). Another option is to purchase a national annual pass for $80, which is good for any national park in the US.
Get to the trailhead early to find parking. This paved hike is roughly 3.1 miles with 800 feet of elevation gain. Unfortunately, there was construction being done on the trail when I visited so I didn’t get to do this one, but even the visitor’s center had panoramic mountain views, this hike surely delivers the same.
After the hike, return to Port Angeles for lunch. Port Angeles is a small seaport town on the north side of the peninsula. Touristy but quaint, it offers several dining options as well as boutiques, gift shops and restaurants.
Grab a bite to eat at New Day Eatery, a casual dine-in with fresh, organic meals catered to a variety of diets. Their vegan pizza is the perfect post-hike meal.
Next up: Madison Falls Trailhead. Head out of town going west on the 101. Flat and only .2 miles, you’ll reach the falls in roughly 10 minutes. An easy walk, this hike is perfect for families.
This water fall hike is where you’ll get your first true taste of what the PNW is known for. Rainforest ecosystems make up much of the ground level throughout the entire park – the air can be humid, and everything is green. Rain is very much a part of the PNW, even during the summer, so dress in layers.
After a day of adventure, it’s time to get some rest. There are several free unofficial camping spots throughout the park, but Fairholme Campground – $20 a night – is most ideal for its proximity to the Marymere Falls and Mount Storm King trailhead, which you will be hiking the following day. It’s located on the western end of Lake Crescent.
The other option is to stay at the Lake Crescent Lodge, a rustic cabin resort built in 1915. It has beautiful views of the lake and it is also walking distance from the Marymere Falls and Mount Storm King trailhead. Make sure to research beforehand about COVID restrictions.
Day Two
Wake up early and head to Lake Crescent Lodge (if you hadn’t stayed the night there.) The Mount Storm King and Marymere Falls trailhead starts here. From the parking lot, follow the trail behind the ranger station and back under the highway until you reach the fork.
Mount Storm King is to the left, Marymere Falls is to the right. The waterfall adds about 1.7 miles onto the hike, but it’s pretty flat – and very beautiful – so I thought that it was worth it. In total this hike is 5.3 miles (7 miles if you include Marymere) with 2,200 feet of elevation gain.
Mount Storm King is more difficult. The trail is level for the first half mile or so, before it gives way to continuous switchbacks for the remainder of the hike. Much of it is in the forest, but you will break out of the trees near the top. The trail gets steeper as it winds up the rocks. There is a technical section with ropes used to help ascend, as well as a small rocky scramble to the summit.
This was one of the first true hikes I ever did and as a total beginner, I thought it was challenging, but very doable. The ropes are there more for stabilization, especially if the ground is wet after rain; you won’t be climbing straight up a rock face or anything like that so don’t let this intimidate you.
When you reach the top, you’ll be glad you kept going. The views of Lake Crescent are well worth the hard work.
After the hike, make your way up to Cape Flattery. This scenic point is as far northwest as you can get – not only in Washington, but in the 48 contiguous states. This area is also part of the Makah Reservation, one of eight native tribes that live on the Olympic Peninsula
Wander around intersecting trails that weave through the forest and to the edges of dramatic cliffs. Take in the sights of the tree lined islands in the bay. This area is one of the most unique places I’ve ever been to. Again, this hike is very easily accessible and perfect for families.
Next up, it’s dinner time. Drive south down to Forks. If you’re a nerd like me, you’ll know that the small town of Forks is the setting for the vampire/werewolf book and movie series, Twilight. There are a few tourist shops and even tours available for the diehard Twilight fans.
Grab dinner at South North Garden, a hole-in-the-wall Chinese restaurant. Devour the tofu eggplant dish while you pour over the map of the park and plan your next steps.
After dinner head west to the Quileute Reservation. When you reach the “treaty line” there is a small RV park, Riverview RV Park. Across the street there is the Three Rivers Resort hotel. Camp there for the night and listen for any howls from the legendary werewolves.
Day Three
You’ve seen snowcapped mountains, mossy rain forests, dramatic cliffs, now it’s time to go to the beach! Bring your rain jacket; this is no tropical beach.
From the RV park drive west to La Push, the main town of the reservation. There are four main beaches: Rialto, First, Second and Third.
My favorite beach is Second Beach. It’s much more remote than Rialto and First; the short path through the woods feels ancient and sacred, as though the spirits of the native people who lived here thousands of years ago are still there today.
You’ll understand why Stephenie Meyer chose this area as the location for Twilight; its all too easy to imagine the shadows of mythical beasts watching you from behind densely packed trees as the sunlight weakly filters through the canopy, and the waves crash in the distance.
All beaches offer dramatic views of the massive islands that are just off the coastline. Take a seat on one of the many pieces of driftwood and breathe in the humid, briny scent.
At Third Beach, you’ll find the Third Beach Trailhead. In addition to another secluded beach, there is also a trail that continues 15 miles along the coastline, ending at the Hoh River. Taylor Point (2.5 miles in), is a popular stopping point if you don’t want to hike the entire thing. I chose not to do this hike in favor of exploring Hoh Rain Forest, but this is a great one for anyone wanting more of those coastal views.
The final stop of the day is the Ho Rain Forest. If you haven’t already become obsessed with the lush greenery, you definitely will be here.
Wander The Hall of Moss Trail (.8 miles), and The Spruce Nature Trail (1.2 miles), and take in the vibrant abundance of life and growth: Giant Sitka Spruces, Douglas Firs and Big Leaf Maples covered in moss, huge neon ferns and nursery trees – fallen tree trunks that serve as growing grounds for new life.
There is also Hoh River Trail, an 18 mile (one way), out-and-back trail that ends at Blue Glacier and Mount Olympus. It’s fairly flat almost the entire way and has several good stopping points for those wanting to do a day trip. This would make an excellent backpacking trip as well.
Once you’re done exploring hop back on the 101 and head south. Stop and camp at Lake Quinault. There are campgrounds that charge a fee, a couple of inns and some free spots if you don’t mind searching around.
Day Four
End the trip with a hike off the beaten path. Seriously, this remote hike is deep in the Olympic National Forest wilderness.
Pete’s Creek to Colonel Bob is an 8-mile (roundtrip) trek with 3500 feet of elevation gain. If you want a challenging hike full of adventure and solitude, this is it. Although I did this as a day hike, I would recommend doing this as a backpacking trip.
The hike starts out in the forest and continues through the mossy trees and ferns for about two miles. It was early in the season when I hiked this, and the trail had not been maintained for a while so there was some bush whacking involved.
At the two mile mark begin the steady climb of switchbacks through a beautiful valley. Keep an eye out for bears. I unknowingly came into proximity with a black bear – I later learned from fellow hikers that there was one just a few switch backs above me as I was climbing – although I never saw it personally.
Around 3.2 miles you’ll reach Moonshine Flats, where there are sites for camping. If you’re backpacking, enjoy a peaceful night here and then hit the remaining mile in the morning, making for an easy sunrise hike to the summit.
A river flows through here so you’ll have plenty of water. If you’re hiking straight through, take a break and drink the ice-cold glacier melt. (Make sure you do this through a water filter).
The remaining mile continues with steeper switchbacks as you traverse through a small pass and up to the final climb. There’s a small scramble and then you’ll reach the summit – no more than a small rocky peak in the middle of the forest.
Make sure to plan this hike around the weather – go on a clear day. The day I went, the clouds rolled in early and I was greeted with nothing but fog at the top. There’s nothing more disappointing than working your ass off only to be rewarded with clouds.
It’s chilly at the top so bring layers. Some kind fellow hikers I made friends with lent me their emergency blanket – and kept me warm with coffee – as we waited out the weather in hopes of getting those views.
On a clear day you’ll be rewarded with endless views of the Olympic Peninsula – the national park, Lake Quinault and even all the way to the Pacific Ocean to the west. This hike is isolated, tough and the perfect way to end your adventures.
Things to Note
The Pacific Northwest is notorious for its rain. While the weather is warmer, sunnier, and mild during summer, there is still rain. (It rained for at least part of each day I was there). Bring layers and a rain jacket. Check the weather before hiking in the high alpine areas.
The peak season is summer (June, July, August) which means more people will be there at that time and there could be wait times to get in at popular areas such as Hurricane Ridge and Hoh Rain Forest. I went in early June and didn’t encounter too many people or waiting, but it’s still something to be aware of.
For those living/traveling in a van/RV. Stock up on groceries in Port Angeles. Aside from Forks and Neah Bay, there aren’t any real towns that have places to eat. You can always get food from the hotels/lodges, but that’s generally more expensive with limited options.
